A Weed Whacker has various names: String Trimmer, Garden String Trimmer, Tree Pruner, Brush Cutter, Weed Eater, etc. As other articles have aptly pointed out, Shrub Stump Removal in Waterfall these versatile garden tools come with various cc-power levels, electric versus gasoline, and 2-stroke versus 4-stroke capabilities. But what has not been addressed is the use of a “BLADE” on such a tool for all the versatile work a blade can perform in the garden environment.
ADDED VERSATILITY AND USES WITH A BLADE:
A circular saw Blade specifically made for and attached to a Weed Whacker gives the following versatility uses in the garden environment:
1. Tree trimming (aka Pruning) which in many cases actually works better than using a cumbersome heavy chain saw for pruning since the circular blade can be wielded at the end of a lighter longer 6 foot Weed Whacker shaft for reaching up into trees. Cost Of Trees Such a blade can typically cut a tree branch/ limb up to the diameter of the blade provided you cut from both sides of the limb.
2. A blade can be used for clearing large patches or even acreage of heavy thick wood stock brush and sticker brambles (aka: Blackberry sticker bushes) where a common string line spool would be much too weak to cut through adequately.
3. Hedge trimming is a dream with a blade attached to a Weed Whacker; the hedging action is faster and less jagged as compared to a standard hedging tool. So in conclusion, a blade attached to a Weed Whacker augments your common standard string trimmer into a full-on chain saw, hedge trimmer, and large acreage clearer of wood stock weed, saplings, and heavy tall growth brambles (ergo, Black Berry bushes).
BLADE HARDWARE, ARBOR HOLE MATCHING:
Each Weed Whacker on the market is different and so each owner of their particular Weed Whacker will have to contact their respective Weed Whacker Manufacturer to inquire about BLADE attachment hardware. Most electric-powered versions are UNDER powered for handling a Blade so will probably NOT have blade attachment hardware available. On the other hand, most gasoline powered Weed Whacker’s will have Blade attachment hardware available. Blade attachment hardware normally consists of a standard blade guard along with a few small metal parts that fit on (slide onto) the little threaded shaft that the String Spool screws onto. These little pieces of hardware will consist of the lower part that will have a raised circle about the size of a common 25 cent piece (quarter) or as small as a nickel (5 cent piece). Cutting Trees In Backyard this raised circle is how the hole in the center of the Blade fits on, then the upper part hardware piece variously called “the cap piece” is applied on the top of the blade, then a nut that is screwed on top of the cap, followed by a cotter pin.
Tree Trimming or Pruning Is Important, Know What It Does
3. Eighty (80) to one hundred (100) TEETH Blade: This is the highest level in the Weed Whacker Blade choices. It should be clear now that the more teeth you have cutting, the more aggregate cutting surface area you are applying to the job at hand. In addition, an 80 tooth blade costs more money to make as compared to a blade with half as many cutting teeth as mentioned in (2) above (40 teeth). But the cost is not typically much more if at all for having 80 teeth over 40 teeth. The 80 plus teeth blade offers the most versatility, stays sharper longer and is the best value for the buck. The 100 teeth type blade is the absolute best value since if offers 25% more cutting surface area (teeth) over an 80 tooth blade.
The one main consideration is that the typical 80 tooth blade comes in 8 inch diameter that fits with the safety blade guard ON your Weed Whacker, and the 100 tooth type blade is normally 9 to 10 inch in diameter and therefore will not allow a blade guard to fit. We recommend that the maximum size diameter blade be limited to 9 inches unless you have a very powerful Weed Whacker, otherwise the large circumference of the largest blades can bog down the motor. So in conclusion: 8″ and 9″ diameter blades are best, offer the most aggregate cutting surface, therefore stay sharper longer, and offer the most versatility of jobs in the garden. NOTE: We think Carbide teeth are so worth the small extra purchase cost that we would say a 40 tooth carbide blade would be recommended over an 80 tooth plain steel any day of the week. But the 80 tooth or 100 tooth blade with Carbide Teeth is the absolute best there is.
Shrub Stump Removal in Waterfall ?
While trees are important parts of the environment and chopping them down wholesale is bad, there are some situations that just necessitate cutting them down. A tree that had been planted in the wrong spot could end up as an unwanted obstruction, or one that had been diseased may need to be brought down. One may opt to hire an expert to do the work, or to save money, they may decide to do it themselves. In the case of the latter, one should know how to cut down a tree safely and efficiently.
As the phrase goes, safety comes first. If one wants to know how to cut down a tree, it is important to consider that this is an arduous and potentially hazardous task. So leather work gloves and safety goggles are necessary for proper protection. As for the equipment needed for the job, a chainsaw and a pruning saw would do just fine. Of course, one should also bring an orchard ladder and some rope.
Tree-cutting really is a job best left to professionals, especially in the case of really high, larger trees. But if the tree in question is deemed manageable and if one is confident that they can easily grasp how to cut down a tree, one should then remember the materials needed for the task. Sharp saws, a sturdy ladder and proper safety gear are of course a given. But one should never forget two other simple but necessary tools for the task: caution and patience.
Why Prune a Tree, Especially in the Winter?
You finally have had enough of tree branches in your yard. You are tired of sweating through every snowstorm wondering if your house is going to be remodeled courtesy of nature. You have had enough of being afraid of the site of lightening while you are in your house. Therefore you finally decided to cut down that tree. Good for you, but now what?
The answer depends on what you intended to do once the tree is removed. I recently cut down a tree, and my neighbor cut down seven trees. We live in upstate New York where there are really a lot of trees. My tree was dying when I bought my house and was getting worse and worse. Each storm would convince me that something needed to be done. Each time I would receive a quote to have it cut down, it always seemed to expensive. Finally this year in the winter, when one should be pricing such work, I got what I felt was an affordable quote. After the work was done the tree company asked if I wanted the ground tree mulch. I politely declined. My neighbor readily agreed to the wood chips and put them all over his yard. He said it was great fertilizer. He may very well be right, but I felt with four kids at home this was not the best idea. I could not guarantee what the woodchips would used for. After all, my kids use my recycled bottles for capture the flag games.
I went and got my soil and grass seed and am hoping to plant when the weather picks up. I would close by saying if your tree has to come down then, have a plan for the area afterward so you can enjoy and make good use of the space left behind.