A Weed Whacker has various names: String Trimmer, Garden String Trimmer, Tree Pruner, Brush Cutter, Weed Eater, etc. As other articles have aptly pointed out, Proper Tree Cutting in Sandhurst these versatile garden tools come with various cc-power levels, electric versus gasoline, and 2-stroke versus 4-stroke capabilities. But what has not been addressed is the use of a “BLADE” on such a tool for all the versatile work a blade can perform in the garden environment.
ADDED VERSATILITY AND USES WITH A BLADE:
A circular saw Blade specifically made for and attached to a Weed Whacker gives the following versatility uses in the garden environment:
1. Tree trimming (aka Pruning) which in many cases actually works better than using a cumbersome heavy chain saw for pruning since the circular blade can be wielded at the end of a lighter longer 6 foot Weed Whacker shaft for reaching up into trees. Average Cost Of Tree Removal Such a blade can typically cut a tree branch/ limb up to the diameter of the blade provided you cut from both sides of the limb.
2. A blade can be used for clearing large patches or even acreage of heavy thick wood stock brush and sticker brambles (aka: Blackberry sticker bushes) where a common string line spool would be much too weak to cut through adequately.
3. Hedge trimming is a dream with a blade attached to a Weed Whacker; the hedging action is faster and less jagged as compared to a standard hedging tool. So in conclusion, a blade attached to a Weed Whacker augments your common standard string trimmer into a full-on chain saw, hedge trimmer, and large acreage clearer of wood stock weed, saplings, and heavy tall growth brambles (ergo, Black Berry bushes).
BLADE HARDWARE, ARBOR HOLE MATCHING:
Each Weed Whacker on the market is different and so each owner of their particular Weed Whacker will have to contact their respective Weed Whacker Manufacturer to inquire about BLADE attachment hardware. Most electric-powered versions are UNDER powered for handling a Blade so will probably NOT have blade attachment hardware available. On the other hand, most gasoline powered Weed Whacker’s will have Blade attachment hardware available. Blade attachment hardware normally consists of a standard blade guard along with a few small metal parts that fit on (slide onto) the little threaded shaft that the String Spool screws onto. These little pieces of hardware will consist of the lower part that will have a raised circle about the size of a common 25 cent piece (quarter) or as small as a nickel (5 cent piece). An Arborist this raised circle is how the hole in the center of the Blade fits on, then the upper part hardware piece variously called “the cap piece” is applied on the top of the blade, then a nut that is screwed on top of the cap, followed by a cotter pin.
When To Cut Down A Tree, And When To Save It
3. Eighty (80) to one hundred (100) TEETH Blade: This is the highest level in the Weed Whacker Blade choices. It should be clear now that the more teeth you have cutting, the more aggregate cutting surface area you are applying to the job at hand. In addition, an 80 tooth blade costs more money to make as compared to a blade with half as many cutting teeth as mentioned in (2) above (40 teeth). But the cost is not typically much more if at all for having 80 teeth over 40 teeth. The 80 plus teeth blade offers the most versatility, stays sharper longer and is the best value for the buck. The 100 teeth type blade is the absolute best value since if offers 25% more cutting surface area (teeth) over an 80 tooth blade.
The one main consideration is that the typical 80 tooth blade comes in 8 inch diameter that fits with the safety blade guard ON your Weed Whacker, and the 100 tooth type blade is normally 9 to 10 inch in diameter and therefore will not allow a blade guard to fit. We recommend that the maximum size diameter blade be limited to 9 inches unless you have a very powerful Weed Whacker, otherwise the large circumference of the largest blades can bog down the motor. So in conclusion: 8″ and 9″ diameter blades are best, offer the most aggregate cutting surface, therefore stay sharper longer, and offer the most versatility of jobs in the garden. NOTE: We think Carbide teeth are so worth the small extra purchase cost that we would say a 40 tooth carbide blade would be recommended over an 80 tooth plain steel any day of the week. But the 80 tooth or 100 tooth blade with Carbide Teeth is the absolute best there is.
Proper Tree Cutting in Sandhurst ?
Tree cutting is something that should in most cases be left to the professionals to handle. That being said if the tree you want to cut down is relatively small and short it is something that you should be able to handle if you know how. However, remember to remain safe at all times by wearing a helmet, goggles and gloves.
Before you can start cutting a tree make sure that you have the following tools:
• Kevlar leg coverings, steel toe boots, a hard hat, goggles and heavy duty gloves
• A sharp chainsaw with a full tank of gas
Examine the tree and answer the following questions:
• What direction does the tree lean in?
• Are there any broken or dead branches?
• Is the area in which the tree is expected to fall safe?
• Are branches from nearby trees in the way?
Step no. 6: Now that the cut is completed you will have an even holding wood or you will see the tree begin to fall. You may have to introduce more wedges.
Step no. 7: When the tree is about to fall make sure to get out via your escape route. Make sure to retain attention of the falling tree since it will help you avoid other unexpected damages from falling debris.
Tree cutting is something that requires experience and you should know exactly what you are doing. There is a lot that can go wrong, not to mention the gear you'll need to purchase which is obviously expensive. This is why hiring a group of professionals is advised.
Tree Cutting Techniques
First of all, what good does tree pruning trimming and shaping do for my trees? Secondly, why do it in the winter months? Trimming a tree or pruning is necessary for many reasons. An important reason to prune a tree is to lessen the chance of it falling during a wind or ice storm. Thinning a large tree canopy is a great way to reduce wind resistance.
Once pruned, air can now breeze with ease through the top of a tree requiring much less stabilization and pressure on the root system. Tree maintenance is also appealing to the eye like grass cutting. Cutting dead limbs helps prevent the spread of disease or bacteria, and avoids potential hazards. There are many benefits to trimming, shaping, & pruning a tree.
So why is pruning a tree in the winter so effective? There are many reasons. I will point out a few important ones.
1 - It is Cheaper! Most tree cutting service prices are low in the winter months since this is a slow period. Local tree service cost is very competitive during this season.
It is necessary sometimes to remove live limbs, especially if a tree is potentially hazardous with a lean. If a large heavy limb is on the side of the lean and the tree has grown towards a structure, then by removing this large limb (leader) you can decrease the chance of tree fall. A trees canopy and weight of large limbs has a lot to do with why a tree falls in a storm. Especially a tree is not diseased or dead, although usually there is a mix of issues for a large tree to tumble over in a storm.
Tree trimming, cutting, pruning, & shaping are necessary tasks. As homeowners, it is our responsibility to maintain our trees and keep our yards and neighbors safe. Performing tree work of any kind in the winter is a smart move and saves on the annual tree maintenance budget. So put on a warm coat, get out there in that Cold weather, and get those trees pruned! Contact a local company to provide your tree cutting service.