A Weed Whacker has various names: String Trimmer, Garden String Trimmer, Tree Pruner, Brush Cutter, Weed Eater, etc. As other articles have aptly pointed out, Tree Trimming And Removal in Boksburg these versatile garden tools come with various cc-power levels, electric versus gasoline, and 2-stroke versus 4-stroke capabilities. But what has not been addressed is the use of a “BLADE” on such a tool for all the versatile work a blade can perform in the garden environment.
ADDED VERSATILITY AND USES WITH A BLADE:
1. Tree trimming (aka Pruning) which in many cases actually works better than using a cumbersome heavy chain saw for pruning since the circular blade can be wielded at the end of a lighter longer 6 foot Weed Whacker shaft for reaching up into trees. Tree Cutting Tools Such a blade can typically cut a tree branch/ limb up to the diameter of the blade provided you cut from both sides of the limb.
BLADE HARDWARE, ARBOR HOLE MATCHING:
Each Weed Whacker on the market is different and so each owner of their particular Weed Whacker will have to contact their respective Weed Whacker Manufacturer to inquire about BLADE attachment hardware. Most electric-powered versions are UNDER powered for handling a Blade so will probably NOT have blade attachment hardware available. On the other hand, most gasoline powered Weed Whacker’s will have Blade attachment hardware available. Blade attachment hardware normally consists of a standard blade guard along with a few small metal parts that fit on (slide onto) the little threaded shaft that the String Spool screws onto. These little pieces of hardware will consist of the lower part that will have a raised circle about the size of a common 25 cent piece (quarter) or as small as a nickel (5 cent piece). Tree Cutting Service this raised circle is how the hole in the center of the Blade fits on, then the upper part hardware piece variously called “the cap piece” is applied on the top of the blade, then a nut that is screwed on top of the cap, followed by a cotter pin.
Using a Circular Carbide Blade on Your Weed Whacker or String Trimmer
Tree Trimming And Removal in Boksburg ?
Cutting down a tree isn't as simple as just whacking away at it with an ax. There are specific techniques that need to be followed in order to preserve the wood and ensure the safety of the people cutting down the tree. In order to predict how a tree will fall, the cutter will need to determine the right type of cut to use. There are three main notch types that individuals can use during tree cutting. They are the open-faced notch, the conventional notch and the Humboldt notch.
The Open-Faced Notch
The open-faced notch is ideal for trees that require a high level of accuracy. If the individual is cutting in a tight spot, where accuracy is extremely important, the open-faced notch is the safest notch to use. In this notch, a large, sideways V is cut into the side of the tree. It is a heavily angled notch. The first cut goes in a downwards motion of at least 70 degrees. The bottom cut goes in at a 20 degree upward angle. Then, a small horizontal cut will be made on the back of the tree, meeting the point in the V. The only downside to this notch, other than the additional time required, is the cutter will need to remove the hinge, so there will be a small amount of wood lost.
The Conventional Notch
The conventional notch is named that way because it is the most common type of notch used. It is the preferred method among loggers and tree removal specialists because it is fast and safe at the same time. It still allows a certain amount of accuracy, though not as much as the open-faced notch. In this notch, the top cut goes in at an angle, while the bottom cut is horizontal.
The Humboldt Notch
The Humboldt notch is another common notch when cutting trees. In this notch, the top cut is made horizontal, while the bottom goes in at an upward angle. In this notch, the kickback over the stump might be larger, so it is not ideal for leaning trees. However, this notch does save a lot of wood, so when the tree is being cut for the purpose of using the wood, then the Humboldt notch is a good choice to make.
In tree cutting, it is important to fully evaluate the type of cut prior to getting started. In all cases, the safest possible cut should be used for the purpose of getting the tree down safely and accurately. For most individuals, this will mean using the open-faced cut in order to get the tree down. However, the individual will need to consider the way the tree is leaning, the health of the overall tree, the obstacles in the tree's way and the size of the tree. In most cases, it is best to cut the tree in a way that goes along with the natural way the tree leans. This isn't always possible. In cases, where the tree is leaning in a way that it can't be allowed to fall, non professionals should consult with a tree removal service in order to make sure the tree cutting is carried out as safely as possible.
How to Properly Grind Down a Tree Stump With a Stump Grinding Machine
How to properly grind down a tree stump the right way with a stump grinding machine. There are several sizes of stump grinding machines, from the smaller units that you can fit onto your back, and carry up a slope or hill, and grind down medium to small size tree stumps. And then there are medium size stump grinders, that you can generally rent from your local rental yard store. Then their are bigger size machines, that need more room, and usually charge more, but can do them faster. You also have giant size machines that can blow you away, if you can find a clip on YouTube or cable television.
We will assume you are going to do it yourself, and you rent a standard size 13hp stump grinding machine. The front of the machine has a blade almost like a circular saw, but with carbide teeth. These teeth are very hard, and if you want to grind them down yourself, you need a green grinding wheel to do that.
The one of the biggest hazards of stump grinding, is one of the teeth can fly out, and I own 2 stump grinding machines, with a small part time stump grinding business in San Diego. And I have saw what a stump grinding tooth can do when it comes out. The guard over my machine, is metal, and the strait tooth shot right threw the metal, and it was a perfect square, with protruding metal, just like a bullet hole. So you have to make sure the teeth are totally tight. Check for any loose teeth, and best to tighten each one, especially if it is a rental, the guy at the shop might not be the brightest light in the shed, so take it open yourself, the teeth coming out is the most dangerous thing just about.
So thinking you are saving money by renting a machine for $125 and doing it yourself, you might want to think again. We are loaded and ready to go pretty quick most of the time. If a contractor is putting in a new fence, or sidewalk, he usually can't do it with stumps in the way, and needs it done quick, but we charge the price of renting a machine, and since we are cheaper than anyone we believe, and will beat any price, if they just ask us, or offer us a price to do a certain job, I don't usually say no, and veterans get a better deal, 10% off.
You can see what an average stump grinder looks like at Discount Stump Grinding.
The mulch and saw dust you have afterwords, is great for the yard, is biodegradable, and if mixed properly, is great soil amendment, and looks great around bushes and shrubs. A stump will usually make about 3 times the size of mulch or sawdust, so you will get a lot.