A Weed Whacker has various names: String Trimmer, Garden String Trimmer, Tree Pruner, Brush Cutter, Weed Eater, etc. As other articles have aptly pointed out, Stump Removal Chemical in Rivonia these versatile garden tools come with various cc-power levels, electric versus gasoline, and 2-stroke versus 4-stroke capabilities. But what has not been addressed is the use of a “BLADE” on such a tool for all the versatile work a blade can perform in the garden environment.
ADDED VERSATILITY AND USES WITH A BLADE:
A circular saw Blade specifically made for and attached to a Weed Whacker gives the following versatility uses in the garden environment:
1. Tree trimming (aka Pruning) which in many cases actually works better than using a cumbersome heavy chain saw for pruning since the circular blade can be wielded at the end of a lighter longer 6 foot Weed Whacker shaft for reaching up into trees. Tree Cutting Equipment Such a blade can typically cut a tree branch/ limb up to the diameter of the blade provided you cut from both sides of the limb.
2. A blade can be used for clearing large patches or even acreage of heavy thick wood stock brush and sticker brambles (aka: Blackberry sticker bushes) where a common string line spool would be much too weak to cut through adequately.
3. Hedge trimming is a dream with a blade attached to a Weed Whacker; the hedging action is faster and less jagged as compared to a standard hedging tool. So in conclusion, a blade attached to a Weed Whacker augments your common standard string trimmer into a full-on chain saw, hedge trimmer, and large acreage clearer of wood stock weed, saplings, and heavy tall growth brambles (ergo, Black Berry bushes).
BLADE HARDWARE, ARBOR HOLE MATCHING:
Each Weed Whacker on the market is different and so each owner of their particular Weed Whacker will have to contact their respective Weed Whacker Manufacturer to inquire about BLADE attachment hardware. Most electric-powered versions are UNDER powered for handling a Blade so will probably NOT have blade attachment hardware available. On the other hand, most gasoline powered Weed Whacker’s will have Blade attachment hardware available. Blade attachment hardware normally consists of a standard blade guard along with a few small metal parts that fit on (slide onto) the little threaded shaft that the String Spool screws onto. These little pieces of hardware will consist of the lower part that will have a raised circle about the size of a common 25 cent piece (quarter) or as small as a nickel (5 cent piece). Cutting Big Trees this raised circle is how the hole in the center of the Blade fits on, then the upper part hardware piece variously called “the cap piece” is applied on the top of the blade, then a nut that is screwed on top of the cap, followed by a cotter pin.
How to Cut Down a Tree
3. Eighty (80) to one hundred (100) TEETH Blade: This is the highest level in the Weed Whacker Blade choices. It should be clear now that the more teeth you have cutting, the more aggregate cutting surface area you are applying to the job at hand. In addition, an 80 tooth blade costs more money to make as compared to a blade with half as many cutting teeth as mentioned in (2) above (40 teeth). But the cost is not typically much more if at all for having 80 teeth over 40 teeth. The 80 plus teeth blade offers the most versatility, stays sharper longer and is the best value for the buck. The 100 teeth type blade is the absolute best value since if offers 25% more cutting surface area (teeth) over an 80 tooth blade.
The one main consideration is that the typical 80 tooth blade comes in 8 inch diameter that fits with the safety blade guard ON your Weed Whacker, and the 100 tooth type blade is normally 9 to 10 inch in diameter and therefore will not allow a blade guard to fit. We recommend that the maximum size diameter blade be limited to 9 inches unless you have a very powerful Weed Whacker, otherwise the large circumference of the largest blades can bog down the motor. So in conclusion: 8″ and 9″ diameter blades are best, offer the most aggregate cutting surface, therefore stay sharper longer, and offer the most versatility of jobs in the garden. NOTE: We think Carbide teeth are so worth the small extra purchase cost that we would say a 40 tooth carbide blade would be recommended over an 80 tooth plain steel any day of the week. But the 80 tooth or 100 tooth blade with Carbide Teeth is the absolute best there is.
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Pruning a cherry tree is different than pruning other fruit trees.
Pruning most fruit trees is fairly simple. The end result should be a funnel allow equal amounts of sunlight to reach all the branches and in turn the fruit as it grows, promoting healthy growth and maturity of the individual fruits. Trimming a cherry tree is different, here's how...
Although the theory is the same, the end shape is different. It is sometimes described as a scaffolding, ladder or layers. In other words, all of the main producing branches should stick out perpendicular from the trunk, like a "T". The first layer starting 2" prime; -3" prime; from the ground and then additional branching at 2" prime; intervals all the way to the top. Like other fruit trees this allows equal amounts of sunlight to reach the fruit, thought the shape is different. It also increases air flow, which is important for optimal cherry growth.
Special Note: Never prune more than 25% of the tree except in very specific and rare cases.
When should I prune my cherry tree?
In a health region, free of silver leaf disease, pruning and trimming should be done in late winter just before the cherry tree starts to bud. If silver leaf disease is prevalent in your area then it is best to trim in the summer at the first sign of the disease.
Be sure to know the kind of cherry tree you have as some cherry trees require a slightly different approach. Especially varieties of ornamental cherry trees.
After You Cut That Tree Down Now What?
First of all, what good does tree pruning trimming and shaping do for my trees? Secondly, why do it in the winter months? Trimming a tree or pruning is necessary for many reasons. An important reason to prune a tree is to lessen the chance of it falling during a wind or ice storm. Thinning a large tree canopy is a great way to reduce wind resistance.
Once pruned, air can now breeze with ease through the top of a tree requiring much less stabilization and pressure on the root system. Tree maintenance is also appealing to the eye like grass cutting. Cutting dead limbs helps prevent the spread of disease or bacteria, and avoids potential hazards. There are many benefits to trimming, shaping, & pruning a tree.
So why is pruning a tree in the winter so effective? There are many reasons. I will point out a few important ones.
1 - It is Cheaper! Most tree cutting service prices are low in the winter months since this is a slow period. Local tree service cost is very competitive during this season.
It is necessary sometimes to remove live limbs, especially if a tree is potentially hazardous with a lean. If a large heavy limb is on the side of the lean and the tree has grown towards a structure, then by removing this large limb (leader) you can decrease the chance of tree fall. A trees canopy and weight of large limbs has a lot to do with why a tree falls in a storm. Especially a tree is not diseased or dead, although usually there is a mix of issues for a large tree to tumble over in a storm.
Tree trimming, cutting, pruning, & shaping are necessary tasks. As homeowners, it is our responsibility to maintain our trees and keep our yards and neighbors safe. Performing tree work of any kind in the winter is a smart move and saves on the annual tree maintenance budget. So put on a warm coat, get out there in that Cold weather, and get those trees pruned! Contact a local company to provide your tree cutting service.